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What snipe is and what usually causes it
Snipe is a deeper cut over a short section at either end of a board. A general reference page on thickness planers describes it that way and names two common causes: incorrect feeding or misalignment of the infeed or outfeed tables, and rollers set unnecessarily high where they sit in the infeed table surface. That page is a secondary source and short on detail, but it matches what the machine manuals tell you to check.
The reason snipe happens is the same on every planer. For a moment, the board is held by only one roller set, or by none, while the cutterhead is still cutting. If the board tips even slightly at that moment, the knives take a bit more off. Where the tip comes from depends on the machine, which is why one fix does not suit every planer.
This is a different problem from the chips and clogging covered in the planer chip problem, although a blocked hood can add to a messy cut. If you are not sure which planer you have or how it is classed, the site's planer size guide and the thickness planers guide explain the types.
Work out which kind of snipe you have
Use the pattern on a test board to narrow the cause. Plane a straight, flat board that is longer than your table support, feed it once, and mark which end shows the dip and how long it is. A short dip at the front points somewhere different from a dip at the back.
| What you see | Likely cause | First check |
|---|---|---|
| Dip at the front end only | Board entering unsupported or lifting as it meets the cutterhead | Infeed support height, table alignment in the manual |
| Dip at the back end only | Board dropping as it leaves the infeed rollers | Outfeed support, a helper, roller pressure |
| Dip at both ends | Tables out of line with the cutterhead, or poor support on both sides | Table alignment and support height |
| Dip only on thin or short boards | Board shorter than the distance between the roller sets | Piggyback a second board, use a longer carrier |
| Different amounts on different passes | Cutterhead or column not locked, or feeding rhythm | Manual's lock instructions, steady feed |
The cause column is a starting point, not a verdict. A board that is cupped or twisted will rock on the table and look like snipe, so flatten the face on a jointer or with a sled first. The site's jointer versus planer guide explains why the planer cannot flatten a board on its own.
Board support and feeding habits
Support is the cheapest fix and the most common one. Long boards pivot on the table edge as they enter or leave the machine, and that pivot lifts the end that is still being cut. Support the board level with the planer bed on both sides, ideally with something that matches the bed height, so the board stays flat all the way through.
- Feed in one motion. Start the board straight and let the infeed roller take it. Stopping and restarting, or pushing sideways, changes how the board sits.
- Do not lift or push down. Let the rollers move the board. Lifting the free end to compensate often creates the dip you are trying to avoid.
- Start the next board right behind the last. Many woodworkers feed boards end to end so one board is always in the rollers. Do this only if the manual allows it and the boards are the same thickness and flat.
- Cut overlong. The reference page also suggests leaving the board long so the sniped ends can be trimmed away. For costly stock, add a sacrificial board at each end.
Short and thin stock is its own case. If a board is shorter than the gap between the roller sets, it will not be held on both sides of the cutterhead. Use the length your manual lists as the minimum, and fasten thin stock to a flat carrier board rather than feeding it alone.
Roller stands and infeed/outfeed supports
Match the support height to the planer bed, and check that the stand is stable on your floor. Search by support type rather than brand, and read the stated height range before ordering. Used stands turn up often on eBay.
Table, roller and lock settings by planer type
Planers differ in what you can adjust. Bench-top planers usually have fixed infeed and outfeed tables that fold or pull out as extensions, with little to align. Stationary planers have a bed with rollers and, usually, a way to adjust the pressure or the height of those rollers. Some machines have a cutterhead or carriage lock for the last stage of the cut. What you may adjust, and how, is in the manual.
The reference page above blames rollers set unnecessarily high in the infeed table. If your planer lets you adjust bed rollers, the manual will give a setting for the rollers' height relative to the bed. Follow that figure, not a rule of thumb from a forum thread, and change one setting at a time so you know what helped.
If your machine has a lock on the head or carriage, check whether the manual tells you to use it. Where it does, a board that snipes at the back only is worth a look at the lock before anything else. Worn or dirty parts can undo good settings, so look at the feed rollers and the tables and beds: sap, pitch and rust can raise friction and make boards stop and start.
A dull or damaged knife shows up as a rough or torn surface rather than as snipe, but a rough surface can make snipe harder to read. If you suspect the knives, see the site's pages on planer knives and helical versus straight knives, and follow the manual for setting them.
Planer rollers, tables and wear parts
Search the model number from the machine plate plus the part name, and compare the listing with your parts diagram. Do not buy by appearance. Used and surplus parts are common on eBay, so check that the listing names your exact model.
A sensible order to try fixes
- Unplug the planer and clean the tables and rollers. Wax or clean as the manual says.
- Flatten one face of the test board and plane it at a light cut.
- Support the board level at both ends and feed it steadily.
- Read the manual's section on table, roller and lock adjustment. Change one thing at a time.
- Cut the boards longer than needed and trim the ends.
- Add support stands or a replacement part only if the checks above did not solve it.
If snipe appears after years of clean cuts, something has changed: a loosened lock, a worn roller or a table that has moved. Compare against the manual rather than making random adjustments. When a used machine will not stop sniping after these checks, the site's used planer inspection page lists what to look at before spending more.
Frequently asked questions
What causes snipe on a thickness planer?
Snipe is a deeper cut at the start or end of a board. Common causes are poor board support, uneven feeding, misaligned infeed or outfeed tables and rollers set too high. Check the manual for your machine.
Can I get rid of snipe completely?
Often you can reduce it a great deal, but many woodworkers still cut boards overlong and trim the ends. Treat trimming as a normal step on valuable stock.
Does a helical cutterhead fix snipe?
Not by itself. A cutterhead changes how the surface is cut, not how the board is supported. Support, feeding and table settings are the usual snipe fixes.
Why does a short board snipe more?
A board shorter than the distance between the roller sets is not held on both sides of the cutterhead. Check the minimum length in the manual and use a carrier board for short or thin stock.
Should I buy outfeed stands before adjusting the planer?
Support stands often help, but check the planer manual and your feeding method first. Stands that are the wrong height can create snipe instead of removing it.
Sources and verification
- Wikipedia: Thickness planer (a general reference), for the description of snipe, the two causes it names and the suggestion to leave boards overlong so ends can be trimmed.
No roller heights, table settings, minimum board lengths or lock procedures are quoted, because they differ by model. Confirm adjustments, minimum stock length and any head or carriage lock in your planer's manual or the maker's support page. Cause and fix patterns in the table are practical starting points, not measurements.